MANCHESTER, NH – After 30 years of dynamic cutting-edge culinary influence shaping the chocolate culture of not only New England but across the country – and the world – Richard Tango-Lowy, along with his coterie of artists, chefs, apprentices and chocolatiers at downtown Manchester’s Dancing Lion Chocolate, are preparing for their final week of operations, hanging up their chocolatiering coats in search of new ventures.
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Tango-Lowy says there is room in his heart for nothing else but excitement for the future.
In his role as president of Heirloom Cacao Preservation (HCP), which acts as a cultivation-focused nonprofit working alongside the U.S. Department of Agriculture to protect and continue the heritage and growth of exceptional chocolate, Tango-Lowy has plans and intentions to continue his vision for a global future of premium chocolate agriculture and craft in beautiful Central American Costa Rica. The country’s rich and fertile soils alongside its balmy tropical climate make it a prime and pivotal location for the growth of the finest beans – which is why Costa Rica boasts a centuries-long connection to cacao farming and a vibrant confections community.
Since 2012, the nonprofit has grown from a scrappy startup into a global network of cacao experts working directly with farmers in Guatemala, Mexico, Colombia, and beyond. The results are real – farmers in Peru report revenue gains of up to 30% in just the last year thanks to new training and partnerships. Now, with grant funding less predictable, the organization is turning its sights to long-term stability: building a $2 million endowment to guarantee its work carries on for decades to come.
“By 2030, my goal is for the organization to be entirely self-sufficient,” Tango-Lowy says. “Grants are nice, but we can’t rely on them forever.”
Along with continuing to pursue the vision and mission of HCP, Tango-Lowy plans to spread the tutelage of his expertise far and wide through classes for aspiring chocolatiers and chocolate makers at Ecole Chocolat, a U.S. & Canada-based professional skill-level program.
Tango-Lowy and his team have been working diligently on creating a final set of 10 signature bonbon boxes: the last to ever be produced under the Dancing Lion moniker, which will go to the highest contributing donors to Dancing Lion’s endowment, intended to nurture the continued growth of HCP.
As for his team, they are taking what they’ve learned and spreading the gospel of Dancing Lion in their own ways.
Chocolate maker and student-turned-protege Roger Balcom, who shifted away from an original, strenuous career path in the STEM focused world of engineering to scratch the itch of creative freedom and passion, also finds himself pursuing the call to arms of heirloom cacao preservation and production. Following in his mentor’s footsteps, he, too, plans to take his talents internationally, learning and interning under premiere cacao farmer and agriculturalist Volker Lehman in the wilds of Bolivia. Balcom takes great interest in the process and craft behind creating premium chocolate.
“I’ll be there for like, three months… [Volker Lehman], he’s been there for like, 30 years. He’s one of the first pioneers of wild chocolate; and keeping it wild harvested as opposed to keeping it on farms. So, I want to see how he does it. He has the best quality stuff we’ve ever gotten,” Balcom says. He hopes to continue studying and mastering each step of the process from bean to bar; with aspirations to someday potentially explore a cacao venture of his own. “I want to get some perspective. I appreciate everything I’ve learned here; but I know it wouldn’t be happening unless there were the people on the ground. So I want to see what they’re doing, and hopefully bring some of that back.”
Chef Donna, a fixture of the shop as well as the sous-chef, also has similar globe-trotting plans following the origins of cacao; where she hopes to once again travel to Belize or even Kathmandu.
New addition to the team and valuable apprentice Kiki Bagley hopes to tap more into their innate artistic abilities which have been nurtured by Dancing Lion. Having caught the bug of craft culinary magic, Bagley has considered a pivot to Loon Chocolate across the Merrimack River on the city’s West Side, or to join Dancing Lion neighbors at Dishon Bakery, next door.
“It’s hard to find places that are similar to [Dancing Lion]. Not only did I get to have experience with making chocolate, different types of ganache; but actually putting the arts in culinary arts.” The beautiful, uniquely detailed turtles in the display case reflect that. “I don’t know any other place where I get to hand-paint each of the chocolates.”
They are currently pursuing a unique internship opportunity at local theme park staple Canobie Lake Park, working under the park’s lead artistic director to restore and create hand painted murals, decorations and attractions throughout the park. The role, which has been hungry for a new generation of talent, relates to their current studies at Northeastern University, where they are pursuing a master’s in arts administration and cultural entrepreneurship.
“I want to be able to own a gallery where I’m not only accepting local art; but also to have a space for local chefs and culinary artists to come in and cook there, in a commercial kitchen.” Bagley wants to explore the play between the two worlds of creativity to create memorable experiences for viewers and the community.
“Do you know how fun it is, to eat food while walking around and looking at art? People working in collaboration with each other, making sure the food matches the style of the art… but also dedicating two to three months out of the year to charity work, working with local co-ops, grocery stores, and soup kitchens; to make that space one that is a available for those with little income or without homes to put food on the table. To sit down at the table, with an actual meal.” Bagley’s aspirations for their dream space also hope to include education in basic cooking, prep, and meal planning for people of all ages.
As Dancing Lion winds down for their final days at 917 Elm St., they welcome guests and friends both new and old to stop in for one last hoorah, where they will continue providing their globally distinguished service, offerings, and smiles. Their last day open to the public will be Oct 2.
